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Double rooms are available for as little as €99 excluding breakfast, though €160 is more usual; the breakfast buffet costs €18 per person.
The second maritime option is the 103-year old Kempinski Atlantic (3), overlooking the lake at An der Alster 72-79 (00 49 40 28 88 817; kempinski.atlantic.de).
Continue east; look south to see if the Elbphilharmonie (9) is anywhere near finished.
When this new auditorium finally opens, it will be one of Europe's finest.
The most unusual is Kolonialwaren (10) at number 45 (00 49 40 37 12 53).
Full of old merchandise and black-and-white photos of the docks, it is so retro you expect to pay in Deutschmarks.
It takes 25 minutes to reach Hamburg's vast main station, the Hauptbahnhof (1).
It was built in 1864 as a seafarers' hostel, but has been deftly converted into a comfortable 21st-century venue with Hanseatic flourishes – and views across the Elbe.For Matjes (salted) or Bismarck (pickled) herring, with a tea, coffee or beer, you will pay less than €10.Window shopping Hamburg's main shopping street is Mönckebergstrasse – broad, pedestrianised and pleasingly unpredictable, with some grand architecture.The southern part of the city comprises the old docks, magnificently reborn as Hafen City.St Georg, to the east beyond the Haupt-bahnhof (1), has made the grade from seedy to bohemian; St Pauli, centred on the red-light thoroughfare Reeperbahn, has not.
The latest hostel in the excellent pan-European Generator (4) chain is two minutes' walk from the south-east entrance of Haupthbahnhof at Steintorplatz 3 (00 49 40 226 358 460; generatorhostels.com).